Tuesday, 31 August 2010

John Harrington-WHAT WE USE - Blimp:

Find 32 more videos at www.AssignmentConstruct.com . Transcript of this video Hi, I'm John Harrington and we're going to break out and break down the wide variety of equipment we use to deliver images to our clients. Next we are going to show you one of the equipment kits we use when we are traveling on assignment. Each kit is different and has a very specific purpose. So lets take a look. One of the things we use a lot is our Jacobson Blimp. The camera is often too loud for us to shoot on a soundstage, movie set, or in other areas where silence is critical. These cameras as you probably know by now are awfully loud. We pack it in a Versa-Flex case, which is a semi soft case but you can still stand on it. The blimp is actually a hard case, and inside the case is a cut out for the camera with a remote. The camera actually fits in with the remote connecting to the camera. The camera slides in nicely, neatly inside the case. We use mostly our prime lenses for this. In this case we've got a 35 1.4. The 35 1.4 goes on with the lens tube. These lens tubes are fitted to each lens. Now when you fire it, now the camera is much quieter, much less likely for the noise to be picked up from a sound stage microphone. Each tube is in here; each lens has a different tube. There's the 24-70 tube, this tube also works for the 135. One of the nice things about the tube when you are using a zoom is the outer ring. The outer zoom ring is actually slightly larger on the camera. When you put ...

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Friday, 27 August 2010

16gb Prime Time Huge Ultimate Accessory Kit for the Canon Eos 5d Digital Slr Cameras.the Kit Includes Lenses, Filters, 16gb Cf Memory Card, 2 Batteries , Carrying Case, Tripod, Flash Plus Much More!! These Lenses and Filters Will Attach to Any of the Following Canon Lenses 18-55mm, 75-300mm, 50mm 1.4 , 55-200mm.

Buy 16gb Prime Time Huge Ultimate Accessory Kit for the Canon Eos 5d Digital Slr Cameras.the Kit Includes Lenses, Filters, 16gb Cf Memory Card, 2 Batteries , Carrying Case, Tripod, Flash Plus Much More!! These Lenses and Filters Will Attach to Any of the Following Canon Lenses 18-55mm, 75-300mm, 50mm 1.4 , 55-200mm. Order Today!


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This Kit Includes:

1- 16GB CF MEMORY CARD
1- USB SD/HC Memory Card Reader
2- 2 Rechargeable Lithium Ion Replacement Extended Life Batteries
1- Rapid Home and Car Charger
1- 3 Piece Filter Kit Includes: UV, Circular Polarizer and Flourescent Filter
1- Flash
1- Soft carrying case
1- Wide Angle Macro Lens w/Pouch and Caps
1- 2x Telephoto Zoom Lens w/Pouch and Caps
1- Full Size Tripod w/Carry Bag
1- 67 inch Monotripod
1- Pack of LCD Screen Protectors
1- Lens/LCD Cleaning Kit
1- Mini Table Top Tripod


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Monday, 23 August 2010

Canon 50mm F/1.8 I Mark 1 MK1 Lowlight Prime Camera Lens

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For sale is a very hard to find canon EF 50 mm F 1.8 metal mount lens. It works with for all Canon EOS cameras like EOS Digital Rebel, EOS 10D, EOS 20D, etc.. There have been two versions of the Canon EF 50/1.8 lens. The early lens (Canon EF 50/1.8), was introduced in March 1987, had a metal lens mount, distance scale, separate manual focus ring and IR focusing indicator. The latter (and current) Canon EF 50/1.8 II lens, was introduced in December 1990, has a plastic lens mount, no distance scale or IR focus indicator and no separate manual focusing ring (you rotate a knurled ring on the front of the lens).Lens Construction (group) 5Lens Construction (element) 6No. of Diaphragm Blades 5Minimum Aperture 22Closest Focusing Distance (m) 0.45Maximum Magnification (x) 0.15Filter Diameter (mm) 52Maximum Diameter x Length (mm) 67.4 x 42.5Weight (g) 190Features:This is one of the most popular lenses, having a long history as a standard lens. Compact and lightweight lens with orthodox 6 elements in 5 groups. High image quality with a good balance of aberration correction is obtained throughout the entire focusing range from the closest focusing distance of 0.45m to infinity. Micro-motor operated AF system. This lens was improved to become the model II by simplifying the focusing distance window and manual focus ring.How does the EF 50/1.8 perform in practice? Well, like all fast lenses it's a little softer wide open than stopped down. However even wide open it's still not bad and in fact a little softness can sometimes be useful when the lens is used for portraits! On any 1.6x sensor body (such as the Digital Rebel (XT), EOS D30, D60, 10D and 20D) a 50mm lens has the same field of view as an 80mm lens would on a full frame camera, so an EF 50/1.8 is a very good portrait lens for use with such APS-C sized sensor DSLRs.

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So it may sound crazy to spend double the amount of money to get a used lens than the comparable new one; but don't think of it as double, think of it as an extra eighty bucks. This lens is very solid compared to any kit lens that I have felt, and from the reviews of the MK II that I read it puts it to shame. I love the distance window and the manual focus ring is in a nice spot. The metal mount feels very solid and tight with my XSI.

I bought the XSI with the kit lens and the 55-250 IS, and loved the setup. What I did not love was that I needed a flash to get decent indoor shots. That is why I bought this lens, and I was not disappointed. It is an affordable lens for low light shooting. If you can't find a MK I and can't spend over three hundred on the 1.4 then buy the MK II. You will love the images, mainly because you would have missed them with the kit lens. For me though, it seemed worth waiting to find the MK I as I know I will have this lens for years.

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Friday, 20 August 2010

Epoque M50 Flat Macro Lens Port for Epoque ERX SLR Underwater Housings, (Compatible with Canon EF-S 60mm f/2.8 USM and EF 50mm f/2.5 Compact Macro)

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Monday, 16 August 2010

Pattie's Auction: Ep. 1

Episode 1: Pattie's Auction - Ross supports Denise in her decision to help Pattie sell items online. Ronnie is oblivious. Wow and Wtf! Music from www.incompetech.com

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Thursday, 12 August 2010

Point and Shoot Camera Photography Tips


Image : http://www.flickr.com


I was recently asked if I can write an article for point-and-shoot (or more specifically, fixed lens camera) users. I think it's a great idea to do so. With the prices of entry-level digital SLRs dropping to insane levels, it is easy for a beginner to think that a professional-looking DSLR will create better pictures outright, which is totally untrue.

Before we begin, you'll see me using the term "point-and-shoot" or "P&S" quite often in this article. Technically speaking, it's not that accurate as any camera that has a program mode (that includes the highest-end DSLR's in the market with their "Program" modes) can be considered as point-and-shoot. Anytime the camera's electronics determine the exposure for you, it's considered a point-and-shoot. For most people, however, the term P&S is tied up to any camera that doesn't have interchangeable lenses. I don't want to pursue this trend, and I'll call those cameras as fixed-lens cameras (FLC's) instead. I'm not trying to reinvent the wheel, but if the term is inaccurate, why use it?

This photo was taken by a 2002 Canon PowerShot S40 with 4 megapixels. Lighting came from an opaque fiberglass roof from above. Model is my son.

While I do use a digital SLR most of the time, I'm a big, big fan of using portable FLC point-and-shoots, digital or film. The simpler the camera, the easier it is for me to operate, the more creative you have to be - not to mention you always have the excuse of "hey! I was using a cheap, automated camera!" (partial joke here).

Seriously, though, a DSLR will surely make your photography better, no doubt. From the higher resolution of the sensors, much faster response times, better auto-focus, considerably better lens, and all the accessories you can add on to create higher quality output, there isn't a doubt that a DSLR is better suited than a fixed-lens digital camera.

Let us point out some limitations with digital FLC's first, and there are a few that you have to consider.

Smaller sensors - A sensor is like a film surface, that's where all the captured light gets transferred onto a chip that collates all the info to form a photograph image file. The larger the sensor, the more efficient the sensor can capture light. A small FLC will have a much smaller sensor compared to even the smallest of DSLR's. That physical difference compromises image quality, noise handling, response times, among others. Fuji cameras are well known to have larger-than-average sensors, but recently, their superior sensors can't compete with the marketing prowess of megapixel count. Quite unfortunate. With the upcoming Canon PowerShot G10 digital camera, however, there seem to be a new direction on sensor development for FLC's, so it's a good sign that we're moving away from the megapixel hype.
Response times - From shutter lag (time difference between the moment you press the shutter to the actual moment a photo is captured) to auto-focus response, FLC's suffer a more sluggish performance than their SLR counterparts. Part of the reason would be the amount of features that engineers need to cram into a tiny housing, the smaller the camera, the smaller the sensors and chips that process the information needed to create a picture. In high stress environments, a bigger camera usually can do things much faster than a smaller camera.
Lens quality - Again, with size being the main issue, the smaller the lens, the harder it is to capture great amount of detail in photographs. This is especially true with lenses that can cover a wide range of focal length. Even with dedicated SLR lenses, the greater the focal length coverage, the lower the inherent image quality, this problem is multiplied on smaller cameras.
Accessories limitation - Most FLC's are sized differently from each other, that aspect alone will force manufacturers to design proprietary accessories like batteries specific only to a particular model. The cost of buying proprietary batteries are higher and less convenient than using standard AA batteries. While there are still a few AA-ready FLC's around, the smaller sized are more marketable and this trend will probably continue in the near future.

There are a lot of benefits from an FLC compared to its larger cousins, though:

FLC's are compact. There are countless of scenarios when it is impossible, illogical, unsafe, impractical to whip out a full-sized SLR for image capture.
Features that are standard to FLC's for quite sometime are just starting to migrate into DSLR bodies. Impromptu videos, tiltable LCD's, instant macro, live-view framing, face detection auto focus, to name a few.
Less conspicuous. A lot of times, when photographing strangers or public places, using a small camera attracts a lot less attention and is less intimidating for your subjects compared to wielding a large camera.

So let's get started - how to take better photos with a FLC.

I have one tip to get you started, and this tip applies to whatever camera you choose to have. If you don't heed this advice, the rest of the article will not work for you.

TIP #1 - KNOW YOUR CAMERA BY HEART

It seems obvious, but I can assure you that majority of camera owners (SLR or FLC) are not familiar with what their camera is capable of achieving.

There can be many reasons for this. From changing cameras too often (often blaming the camera for not being able to capture something), not reading and understanding the manual, not asking the right person, to not practicing at all. Reasons that inevitably point to one source, the user's decision to not know his camera.

You have to be familiar with what all the settings and buttons of your camera. I'm not just saying knowing what the button does, but to know HOW each setting affects your photograph or technique. There's no point bragging about "I know this button is for exposure compensation!" but have no idea how an exposure is calculated in the first place.

You also have to know how to operate your camera with little fuss. Know how to turn on, adjust exposure, lock focus, change white balance, etc. like it's second nature. If you spend your time fiddling on menus and buttons, you'll miss whatever chance you have to capture what's in front of you.

In addition, by knowing your camera's strengths, you'll also know its limitations. You'll instinctively know how to pre-focus to get an action shot, what settings to use to keep noise to your acceptable limit, how near is your lens' minimum focusing distance, how far your flash can reach, and so forth.

So know your camera well. Sit at home, reset your camera to its factory default, follow the user's manual and test every setting to see how it affects your images. That's the only way for you to know what your camera can do. If you "try" settings out during the time of the shoot, not only are you playing a game of roulette, you also won't learn anything.

TIP # 2 - STICK TO THE FOUNDATIONS

Photography is about how light is captured on a subject or scene. It's not about what camera you used or what brand of lens you prefer. If you have decent foundations in photography, the camera you hold has less importance the your photographic vision. The limitations or potential of the camera your holding will become creative inspiration instead of a hindrance to your final photograph.

Composition - Learn basics such as where to place subject, watching out for distracting backgrounds, making use of strong leading lines, looking for a different angle are basic things to keep in mind that can become second nature as your photographic skills grow.
See the light - Learn how and why a certain light is falling on a subject or scene a certain way. Always keep an eye on shadows and how you can manipulate light to create shapes, definition, and depth in your photographs. Experiment by simply asking your subjects (move them if they can't, in case of still life) slightly and see how the light is changing the shape of the shadows.

Those two simple tips will get you ahead of most other casual photo snappers in the real world. Yes, there are a lot of other things that you can and must learn, but as a starting point, those simple, non-technical pointers will enable your photographs to instantly look more presentable than casual snap shots.

TIP # 3 - DON'T BE LAZY!

Photography requires effort.

You need to think creatively, you need to move around and find good angles before you press the shutter button. You can't get good angles by standing straight up and shooting at eye level 99% of the time. That will never happen.

Interesting photographs are a result of captured images you don't often see with your own eyes. Most people are between 5 to 6 feet in height. The 1 to 2 feet vantage point difference isn't a lot and if you keep shooting at those positions, people will not see anything special even if you captured a pig flying.

You have access to three dimensions when you're shooting, use it!

Aim your camera upwards, downwards, kneel down, lie prone, lie on your back, do anything BUT shoot from eye level as much as possible.

Walk up to your subject and fill the frame. Climb up a flight of stairs or stand on a stool. Just be different.

How many times have you joined a group tour and as soon as you arrive on site, every single tourist will stand on the same spot and shoot EXACTLY the same image. What's the point? Just buy a postcard!

Put some effort into it and your photo will stand out from the rest of the pack.

TIP # 4 -DON'T BE A PART OF A HERD

Like my last point, if everyone is shooting the same scene, it'll be difficult to get anything special. Try shooting when everyone else is too wimpy to take their cameras out.

Shoot in the rain, shoot when you're just walking around town, shoot when you're inside a bus, photograph your neighborhood grouch - whatever other people are too LAZY to shoot! Your experience will be very personal and enlightening, to say the least.

TIP # 5 - GET OUT AND SHOOT!

You can read all the books, articles, blogs, forums you want, even attend workshops, but until you actually go out and try out what you've learned again and again, you'll never improve beyond a single instance as your newfound skills are not ingrained in your mind.

Always keep in mind that a camera cannot take a photo by itself, unless you keep shooting, appreciate what you've done, and learn from what went right or what went wrong with your photos, your photos will never improve beyond the amount of effort you've put in.

(Originally post with images can be viewed from David's Simple Photography )

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Sunday, 8 August 2010

From the Sidelines: the Redskins Get Shut Out by the Cowboys, 17-0, 27 Dec 2009

These are photographs I took on behalf of the MASN cable television show "Tony McGee's Pro Football Plus." As stated in the video title, I was on the sidelines which along with the rented Canon L-series 300mm prime lens I was using resulted in some very nice pictures IMHO. Once again, the game was a bit of a fizzle as NFL games go. The Redskins pretty much embarrassed themselves by getting shut out by their arch-rivals the Dallas Cowboys. But as a photographic experience, it couldn't be beat, and I hope to get to do some more games next season. I used both my Canon EOS 5D Mark II (with a 70-200mm F2.8 Canon L-series medium zoom) and my Canon EOS 7D (with the Canon L-series 300mm F2.8 prime lens). I developed the pictures in Adobe Lightroom 2.3 and Photoshop Elements 7.0 (using Topaz Adjust to enhance some of them) and Noiseware 2.0 to knock down some of the graininess resulting from shooting at ISO 3200.

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Thursday, 5 August 2010

New Canon EOS Rebel T2i - Cheapest 18 Megapixel Digital SLR Camera For All


Image : http://www.flickr.com


The new APS-C SLR Canon EOS Rebel T2i is positioned in the amateur band evolved and offers to everyone a 18-megapixel sensor. Video Full-HD, 3 "display with high resolution, memory slots SDXC: this little reflex does not miss anything.

Faithful winter rendezvous Canon has introduced the novelties for Spring 2010: together with compact cameras and printers, the protagonist of the event was certainly the new Canon EOS Rebel T2i digital SLR. Based on a new sensor cleaning system with integrated in-pass filter format 18 megapixel APS-C, which agrees with that of the EOS 7D only data of resolutions giving the DIGIC 4 image management to 14-bit can be taken in bursts at 3.7 fps, with ISO sensitivity from 100 to 6400 and up to 12,800 ISO boost mode.

This model does not replace any previous camera and joins up the EOS Rebel T1i, with a range that starts from the EOS Rebel XS, passing through Rebel XSi and Rebel T1i and now sees the new EOS Rebel T2i to act as a bridge to the prosumer EOS 50D. The focus is entrusted to the new 9-point CMOS sensor TTL-CT-SIR, equipped with high sensitive f/2.8 center point.

The viewfinder pentaprism coverage of 95% and magnification of 0.87 x we felt large and airy, while the new 3-inch diagonal display and 1040k points of resolution provides an excellent support to the Live-View. The flash guide number is 13 and the shutter will sync up to 1/200sec offers.

Interesting developments in the field of video: in addition to allow movie recording Full HD (1920x1080p) at frame rates selectable by users, the EOS Rebel T2i has a crop video recording mode, which limits the resolution to 640x480 pixels, but it offers a magnification equal to 7x.

Between the connectors we find that the external microphone jack for stereo and HDMI-CEC, which allows to control the camera remotely. That the introduction of an SD / SDHC compatible with the new SDXC, memory cards will soon be able to provide storage space in the order of terabytes. EOS Rebel T2i will be on sale from March 2010 to suggest to the public price of $799.99 body only and $ 899.99 in a kit with EF-S 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 IS.

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Sunday, 1 August 2010

Epoque D170 Dome Port for Epoque ERX Underwater Housings, (Compatible with, Canon EF 15mm f/2.8 Fisheye, Canon EF 20mm f/2.8 USM, Canon EF 24mm f/2.8)

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